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Battambang Province
This province has changed hands between Thailand and Cambodia
on several occasions in the past few centuries. It was only
returned to Cambodian control in 1907 and as recently as WW
II the Thais cut a deal with the Japanese to take control again
for several years. |
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| Before Cambodia‘s civil war Battambang was largest
and richest province in Cambodia, but ceded a large chunk
of its territory to Banteay Meanchey for creation of the
new province. It shares a long border with Thailand and
a short border with the Tonle Sap Lake and is the fifth-largest
province in the country. |
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Battambang was untouched for much of the early 1970s, as fighting
raged elsewhere around the country. For this reason the whole
area was viewed with much suspicion by Khmer Rouge leaders and
was the victim of successive central purges. Life was little
better after the war, as the ongoing guerrilla war and the proliferation
of thousands of land mines devastated the agricultural industry
that had built the economy. |
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| However, the province is slowly recovering as demeaning
groups free up land for agriculture and the many refugees
who returned here during the 1990s are permanently settled.
Tourism has a lot of potential, as not only is the provincial
capital a popular stop, but there are extensive examples
of Angkorian heritage in the surrounding countryside. |
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Travel around the province has traditionally been slow due
to disastrous roads, but both NH5, passing through the heart
of the province, and NH57 to Pailin are undergoing comprehensive
renovations. Cambodia’s second-largest city is an elegant
riverside town, home of some of the best –preserved French
period architecture in the country and warm and friendly inhabitants.
The advent of peace has opened Battambang to overland traffic
and it makes a great base from which to explore nearby temples
and scenic villages. There is a very popular boat service running
between Battambang and Siem Reap, probably the most scenic river
trip in the country. |
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Wat Ek Phnom
Wat Ek Phnom is a rather dilapidated the century temple dating
from the reign of Suyavaraman I. It is something of disappointment
after Angkor, but the attractive ride out here on a winding
road following the banks of Stung Sangke makes the trip worth
the time. It is a very popular picnic and pilgrimage spot for
Khmer during festival times. |
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Phnom Sampeau
The hilltop of Wat Phnom Sampeau is located on top of striking
limestone hill 18km southwest of Battambang. It was formerly
the front line in the government’s defense of Battambang. |
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| There is a long, hot climb to reach the summit, which is topped
by both a small wat and a stupa. Nearby are a couple of large
field guns, a hangover from the long civil war. Unless you are
on a fitness drive, it may be better to take the winding road
up the left side if the mountain and come down the main stairs.
The gentler, winding road comes out at a grisly killing field
located in a couple of caves. A small staircase leads down to
a platform covered in the skulls and bones of victims. Look
up to the right and there is a skylight hole where victims were
bludgeoned before being throne into the cave beneath. There
is another mountain nearby, called Crocodile Mountain, which
was often occupied by the Khmer Rouge during the civil war and
used to lob shells at government troops guarding Phnom Sampeau.
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Wat Banan
Wat Banan has five towers pointing skyward and is like a smaller
version of the rather more illustrious Angkor Wat. Locals claim
it was in fact the inspiration for Angkor Wat, but this should
be construed as wishful thinking as there are considerable differences
in size and scale. Built in the 11th century by Udayadityvaman
II, son of Suyavaraman I, it is in a considerably better state
of repair than Wat Ek Phnom and its hillside location offers
incredible views across the surrounding countryside. There are
several impressive carve lintels above the doorways to each
tower, although most are now housed in Battambang Museum. There
is also a large field gun, dating back to the bad old days when
the government had to defend this hill from the Khmer Rouge. |
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Kamping Poy
Kamping Poy is the site of both a recreational lake and one
of the Khmer Rouge’s grander schemes-a massive hand –built
dam stretching for a bout 8km between two hillsides. Some locals
claim the dam was intended as a sort of final solution for enemies
of the revolution, who were to be invited to witness its inauguration
but would instead be drowned following the detonation of dynamite
charges. It was more likely another step on the road to re-creating
the complex irrigation network that Cambodia enjoyed under the
king of Angkor. Whatever the truth, as many as 10,000 Cambodians
are thought to have perished during its construction, worked
to death under the shadow of executions, malnutrition and disease.
Today the lake is a popular swimming spot for local boat for
a short trip around the lake. |
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Sneng
This is a small, nondescript town on NH to Pailin, but is home
to two small yet interesting temples. Prasat Yeay Ten dates
from the end of the 10th century and although little more than
a pile of blocks, it has three elaborately carved lintels above
the doorways that have somehow survived the ravages of time
and war. The temple clings to the road it could pass as an Angkorian-era
tollbooth.
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